BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK
NEXT STOP ON OUR 8 WEEK SUMMER ROADTRIP
After North Rim our next several days stop was set with friends in Salt Lake City, Utah until Kyle arrived from Rwanda. To break up the drive to SLC, I booked a one night stay at Bryce Canyon National Park. From the Grand Canyon, the girls and I drove the three hours north to Bryce Canyon.
SUNSET CAMPGROUND
I was able to book a night at Sunset Campground only a month out from our arrival date. I am not sure if there was a cancellation, or because it was midweek, or it was still early in the summer season, but finding an available camping spot only one month out at a national park felt surprising. There are 2 campsites in Bryce: North Campground (located across from the visitor center near the entrance), and Sunset Campground (1.8 miles down the road). Sunset Campground’s sites were some of the most spacious I have seen in any national park.
THE RIM TRAIL
After exploring the visitor center (it was PACKED with tourists like us), we took the Rim Trail and stopped along at the key lookout points. The Rim Trail (5.5 miles) is wide, easy and mostly accessible with great views of the canyon. Sunset Point to Sunrise Point is the only portion of the trail that is paved, but the rest is hard-packed dirt. I brought the stroller for when the girls got tired and was able to easily navigated the trail with it.
I think the girls may have enjoyed saying the word “Hoodoo” more than looking at them, but I sure enjoyed walking along the rim watching the shifting shadows along the hoodoos.
SHARED USE PATH
Between the shuttle system and the 5 mile two-lane shared use path, there is really no need to drive through Bryce Canyon. We parked the van at our campsite and didn’t need to drive again until we were departing. Bryce Canyon is incredibly bike-friendly!
UTAH HIGHWAY 12
We took a two hour detour to Salt Lake City by way of absolutely beautiful and scenic Utah 12. Kyle and I equally love roadtrips—we did 3 cross-country roadtrips while dating and roadtripped for our honeymoon. Utah 12 is up there as one of our favorite drives. The 123 mile long highway is worth the detour every single time.
ESCALANTE
Along Utah 12 the town of Escalante has so many places to stop and check out. I’m ashamed to admit we have yet to go to the Grand Staircase—Escalante National Monument, but it is on our list for a future visit.
A couple highlights on Utah 12:
Escalante Outfitters: great food, friendly staff and good gear. They also have lodging options and guided adventure tours.
KIVA KOFFEEHOUSE
Kyle and I stopped at Kiva Koffeehouse on our first roadtrip together in September 2010 and have stopped here on many roadtrips since. The architect intentionally designed the building to blend in with beautiful southern Utah, and it does! You have to keep your eyes open for the sign off the highway or you’ll miss it. Kiva is always closed on Tuesdays, and they do close every year for the winter season (usually around November 1). They have also added on a cottage with rooms for guest to rent while exploring beautiful southern Utah. We make it a point to always stop here for a cup of coffee for Kyle and chai tea for me.
HELL’S BACKBONE GRILL & FARM
I first found out about Hell’s Backbone Grill through their second cookbook— This Immeasurable Place: Food and Farming from the Edge of Wilderness. My in-laws ate at Hell’s Backbone, met one of the chefs/authors (Jen) and bought the cookbook for me as a gift. I read the cookbook cover to cover and then purchased their first one (With a Measure of Grace: the Story and Recipes of a Small Town Restaurant) and did the same. The story of how this James Beard Semi-finalist for Outstanding Restaurant started in middle-of-nowhere Boulder, Utah (just outside Escalante) is fascinating and inspiring. The chef-owners, Jen and Blake, tell so many wonderful stories about life, conservation, cooking, food, the small town they are rooted to, and the people they love to feed. The restaurant was closed the day we were driving through (they are typically open Thursday - Monday, and also close for the winter season), but even if it had been open, I would not have taken Monet and Indy by myself. This is the type of restaurant you want to be fully present for and able to linger—both of which are not easily feasible with a 3 and 5 year old. While I am not a huge restaurant person, a place like this, in the location it is… I am all about. Kyle knows this is on my bucket list for us to come to at some point. The girls and I pulled in long enough for me to see the restaurant with my own eyes and snap a picture. I will be back Hell’s Backbone; please wait for me!
Next stop Salt Lake City, Utah!
HIGHLIGHTS:
Sunset Campground—great sites
The shuttle service and shared-use path—there is no need to drive in Bryce
The Rim Trail—great trail right along the canyon
Solo camping with the girls—it felt good knowing I am capable of handling the van (and the girls) solo
LOWLIGHTS:
Not enough time to fully take use of the shared-use path. The girls did bike around our campground, but it would have been great to bike on the path
Being so close to Hell’s Backbone Grill, but unable to eat there